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I am using my old Photoshop 7.0 to convert a photograph into a Japanese-style woodblock print.

1.  Open the image.  Go to Image on the toolbar and click “Image Size”.  Set the image to the size you want it to be when it is finished. 

2.  Open the layers palette.

3. Double click on the background image in the layer palette to “unlock” it. Click OK in the “Layer 0” dialogue box.

4. Using the Lasso tool, select the part of the image you want to turn into a woodblock image. For example here, I selected the structure. Copy the selection (file/copy) and then paste it (file/paste). The selection will now appear as Layer 1.

5. Click Layer 0 on the palette. Go to Filter on the toolbar, click Artistic, and click Poster Edges. Click OK in the Poster Edges Dialogue Box.

6. Click Layer 1 in the Palette. Either double click this layer to open the Layers Style dialogue box OR go to the toolbar on top and click Layer and then Layer Style. In the Layer Style dialogue box, double click Stroke. Change the color of the Stroke to a dark blue, Set the Size to 2 pixels. Change the position to Center. Then click OK. This will add a blue outline to the image, a common feature in woodblock prints.


7. With Layer 1 highlighted, go to the toolbar and click Layers, then select New Adjustment Layer, and then select and click Color Balance. In the New Layer dialogue box click OK. A Color Balance box will now open. Click Shadows and move the bottom slider a bit towards Blue and the top slider a bit toward Cyan. This adds a blue cast to the shadows of the image.


8. In the Layers Palette make sure this new layer is highlighted. Again, go to the toolbar and click Layers, then select New Adjustment Layer, and then select and click Color Balance. In the New Layer dialogue box click OK. The Color Balance box will open again. This time click the Highlight. Move the top slider a little towards Red, the middle slider a little towards Magenta, and the bottom slider a little towards Yellow. Click Ok. This will create a sepia cast to the highlights.


9. In the Layers Palette, double click this second new adjustment layer to open up the Layer Style dialogue box. Change the Blend Mode to Multiply. Then new the bottom of the box where it says “Blend If” move the “This Layer” slider to the right. You will see that the image begins to lighten. Click OK.


10. Once more, in the Layers Palette make sure the newest layer is highlighted. Again, go to the toolbar and click Layers, then select New Adjustment Layer, This time select Threshold. A new layer will appear that shows the image in Black and White. Move the slider towards the left. You want to make a simple black outline of the image. When you are satisfied with the outline, click OK.


11. In the Layers Palette, slide the Opacity down to 10%.


12. In the Layers Palette, click the small triangle in the top right corner to open a drop-down menu. Click “Flatten Image”.


13. Again, double click on the background image in the layer palette to “unlock” it. Click OK in the “Layer 0” dialogue box.

 14. Select Image from the toolbar, then Adjustments, and then select and click Brightness/Contrast. Slide the Brightness towards the right to lighten the image and Contrast also to the right but not as much.


15. Finally, go to File, click Save AS, change the Format from Photoshop to JPEG. Give it a new name (don’t forget to do this or you will save over your original image). Click Save.  You’re done!


Lori (c) 2008


I was playing with the watercolors and the salt eraser in Painter, and then decided to paste the negative of an image traced from one of this past autumn’s raven photos, and came up with this. I though he was kind of fun!

-She Wolf(c)2008

Another practice, Fran


Well, here is my tiger, my first digital painting. Not nearly as good as shewolfy’s. Her’s is so more true to life.

I had difficulty controlling the mouse, especially in the smaller spaces.  There has to be a Wacom tablet in my future. I am so pleased though that I have, thanks to Genece’s tutorial, learned so much.



According to the Last Supper Theory website, an amateur researcher called Slavisa Pesci has discovered new figures in the painting by superimposing a reverse image over the original. The figures are supposed to be a knight and a person holding a baby. You can find the story, and the images here.

These Da Vinci code theories get more and more delightful – who would have thought that Da Vinci had access to such sophisticated image manipulation? But wait, there’s more. I decided to have a go myself and layered a flipped image over the original. Here it is:


I must admit I haven’t examined it too closely – hard on the aging eyes, you understand – but I do think I found something significant in the area highlighted below.


Here’s a close up:


See? It’s the Devil!

Well, I’m sure if you did this long enough you’d find all sorts of conspiracies lurking in this painting – or any painting come to that. Don’t know how Pesci did it – the video is in Italian and I can’t be bothered downloading it, but he seemed to have used an image printed on film over the original. I did my images in Paint Shop Pro, but you can use any graphics program that uses layers.

First make a duplicate (shift D in PSP) of the original. Then do what you like with the duplicate – flip it, mirror, whatever. Go back to the original and make a new raster layer over it. Go to the duplicate and copy it. Now paste the duplicate over the original so that it fits exactly.

The new layer will have its own control in ther Layers box at the right of your screen (or wherever that is in other programs). Change the opacity of the superimposed layer to 50 per cent and voila! You can see through to the bottom layer, merged with whatever the top layer superimposes on that image. Have fun.



The colours of my neighbour's fence
Walking this morning
I found the leaves
had captured the sun
against my aging


This is truly a practice session: First item, no longer have a simple insert for pictures in this. If it does work, I am trying to do the portrait by drawing first in Procreate Painter and then developing the features, shading etc. with the Canvas Paint program. The first makes the lines easier to do in light and dark choices of brush and the latter enables pushing and blending of color more effectively. I am finding working on the small area of the WACOM very different than with my water color brushes and so am still a learner. I thought you might both share my attempts and give advice. Fran

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May 2020

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